Henro: Ch.7 - A respectful visit to Mt. Koyasan

Apr 6, 20242 min read

MEANINGFUL TRAVEL | HENRO | PILGRIMAGES IN JAPAN | MT. KOYA

By SENSEISTEVE88 June 2024

''Some say that though Kobo Daishi (Kukai) left this life,

he did not die ... that he lies uncorrupted in his tomb

on Mount Koya under the ancient trees, awaiting the

coming of the future Buddha who will signal the salvation

of the world' - Oliver Statler, 'Japanese Pilgrimage' (1983)'

Image: Alison Fay Binney

It is customary for pilgrims to visit Mt. Koyasan, in the Wakayama prefecture (not on Shikoku) and pay respects to Kobo Daishi before commencing their pilgrimage. It is believed that Kobo Daishi travels with all Henro ... and a Henro's staff represents Kukai and is called a kongō-zue. His mausoleum, where he resides in 'eternal meditation', is at the far end of the Okunoin Cemetery on Mt. Koyasan behind the temple of 10,000 lanterns. The lanterns are eternally lit. Legend has it that some have been burning for over 1,000 years!

Irrespective of your spiritual beliefs, visiting Okunoin (and Mt. Koyasan in general) is a stirring experience. Okunoin is a 4km long (2km in - 2km out) misty, mossy walk. Every inch is sacred.

The majority of Henro who visit Mt. Koyasan would do so immediately before starting their pilgrimage, although there is no hard or fast rule. I chose to visit in the winter, 6 months before commencing my personal adventure. To experience this Buddhist graveyard with light snow falling was unforgettable. Snow sitting on moss is breathtakingly peaceful.

I walked slowly to the rear of the lantern hall to where the mausoleum sits (one dare not take a photograph). The more religious devotees were chanting sutras and holding prayer beads. I slowly slipped in amongst them, closed my eyes, and silently recited "Namu-Daishi-Henjō-Kongō" (respect to Kobo Daishi) in a rhythmic pattern. At some point without my awareness, the chant inside my head changed and for the rest of the day and evening, the following played on repeat in the back (and often in the front!) of my mind ...

Kobo Daishi will assist me to:

See what I must see;

Experience what I must experience;

Learn what I must learn;

Do what I must Do

See, experience, learn, DO; See, experience, learn, DO; See, experience, learn, DO;